Pearl Crochet Top with Beads and Sequins
Designing a garment with beads/sequins has always been something I admire. I love the look and the added class in items made with these. It’s a good diversification if you ask me. So, for me to make a crochet top and add sequins (my testers added beads) makes this a huge achievement for me.
Scroll down for the free crochet summer top pattern or get the ad-free version on Ravelry
You do not need to use sequence or beads for yours. Some of my Testers left out both sequence and beads and it came out so beautiful.
Why add sequins or beads to your summer crochet top?
I have always wanted to make a design using beads/sequins. It was fun coming up with this easy crochet top using either of the two or totally ignoring it. The ease of working with sequins/beads was surprising.
I have added sequins/beads to baby booties, you can check out the princess baby booties here. But haven’t tried using such on garments. Would this be my last? Definitely not! I have a few other designs in my plan to teach how to add sequins/beads elegantly to crochet garments. The baby booties is a good example of a quick crochet project that uses sequence.
If you have questions about this design, kindly read the FAQ section (last paragraph), if your questions are not answered, kindly drop them and I would be quick to respond.
Sizing details of this cute beaded/sequin crochet top pattern
Finished Measurements
Sizes/Color – XS (S, M, L, XL, 2Xl, 3XL, 4XL, 5XL)
Bust Measurement: 30 (34, 38, 42, 46, 50, 54, 58, 62)”
Armhole Depth – 9 (9, 9, 9, 10, 10, 10, 10, 10)”
Top Length – 23 (23, 24, 24, 25, 26, 26, 26, 26)”
The modeled garment is shown in Medium with 2” of positive ease.
Other fun crochet summer tops free patterns here on the blog to check out include
Materials needed for this easy crochet top with beads/sequence
Yarn – Any Double knit (#3) weight yarn can be used for this test. You can go with a single color just like the picture above or with multiple colors. Whatever color(s) selected would be fabulous.
This prototype is made using Lion Brand Coboo, Dk weight, #3 (51% Cotton, 49% Rayon, 232 yards/212 m per 3.5 oz/100g Ball)
Sample made using 2 colors –
White (A), Lilac (B)
Estimated Yardage needed for this easy summer crochet top
XS
A = 2 Balls/ 7 oz/ 200 g/ 354 yd / 323 m
B = 2 Balls/ 7 oz/ 200 g/ 350 yd / 320 m
S
A = 2 Balls/7 oz/ 200 g / 400 yd / 366 m
B = 2 Balls/7 oz/ 200 g / 400 yd / 365 m
M
A = 2 Balls/ 7 oz/ 200 g /460 yd/ 420 m
B = 2 Balls/7 oz/ 200 g /400 yd/ 365 m
L
A = 3 balls /10.5 oz / 300 g /500 yd / 457 m
B = 2 balls /7 oz /200 g / 450 yd / 411 m
XL
A = 3 Balls /10.5 oz/ 300 g/ 650 yd / 594 m
B = 3 Balls /7 oz/ 300 g/ 600 yd / 548 m
2XL
A = 4 Balls /14 oz/ 4000 g /800 yd / 732 m
B = 3 Balls /10.5 oz/ 300 g /690 yd / 632 m
3XL
A = 4 Balls /14 oz / 400 g /900 yd / 822 m
B = 4 Balls /14 oz / 400 g /800 yd / 732 m
4XL
A = 5 Balls/17.5 oz / 500 g /1000 yd / 914 m
B = 4 Balls/14 oz / 400 g /900 yd / 822 m
5XL
A = 5 Balls/17.5 oz / 500 g/1100 yd / 1100 m
B = 4 Balls/17.5 oz /500 g/900 yd / 822 m
Hook and other Materials
– US size G (4 mm) Crochet Hook.
– Stitch Markers – 4 pcs
– Optional – Sequins (6mm) or Beads (3- 6mm) = 296 (352, 434, 434, 522, 574, 604, 660, 660) pcs
Check out Some of my tester’s versions using seed beads.
Get the PDF pattern on Ravelry
I would love to see your beautiful makes using Beads, sequins, or none of the two. When you do, kindly send me a picture.
Instructions for the easy summer crochet top
Section 1: Front Panel
- Worked from the bust down to the under-bust in rounds.
- Thread 156 (156, 182, 182, 210, 210, 240, 240, 240) sequins/beads into the ball of yarn before starting.
Chain 128 (144, 160, 176, 196, 212, 228, 244, 264) join to form a circle, adjust the starting chains for a more comfortable fit, but in multiples of 4.
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, *ch 2, skip next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, rep from * to end, ch2, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 2: Ch 4, skip first 2 sts, *dc in next 2 chs, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, rep from * to last 2 sts, dc in last 2 sts, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in ch sp, *ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 chs, rep from * to end, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 128 (144, 160, 176, 196, 212, 228, 244, 264) hdc
- Please note that the sequins/beads are to be in the center.
- Not using Sequins/Beads? Simply work Hdc all through in the rows with sequins.
Row 5: Ch 2, hdc in next 20 (24, 27, 31, 35, 39, 42, 46, 51) *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 23 (23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 29, 29, 29) more times, hdc in the remaining sts. Join with a sl st to beginning ch.
Row 6: Rep Row 4
Row 7: Ch 2, hdc in next 21 (25, 28, 32, 36, 40, 43, 47, 52) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 21 (21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 27, 27, 27) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 8: Rep Row 4
Row 9: Ch 2, hdc in next 22 (26, 29, 33, 37, 41, 44, 48, 53) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 19 (19, 21, 21, 23, 23, 25, 25, 25) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 10: Rep Row 4
Row 11: Ch 2, hdc in next 23 (27, 30, 34, 38, 42, 45, 49, 54) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 17 (17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 23, 23, 23) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 12: Rep Row 4
Continue the decrease until 2 sequins left
Row 13: Ch 2, hdc in next 24 (28, 31, 35, 39, 43, 46, 50, 55) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 15 (15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 21, 21, 21) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 14: Rep Row 4
Row 15: Ch 2, hdc in next 25 (29, 32, 36, 40, 44, 47, 51, 56) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 13 (13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 19, 19, 19) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 16: Rep Row 4
Row 17: Ch 2, hdc in next 26 (31, 33, 37, 41, 45, 48, 52, 57) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 11 (11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 17, 17, 17) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 18: Rep Row 4
Row 19: Ch 2, hdc in next 27 (32, 34, 38, 42, 46, 49, 53, 58) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 9 (9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 15, 15, 15) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 20: Rep Row 4
Row 21: Ch 2, hdc in next 28 (33, 35, 39, 43, 47, 50, 54, 59) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 7 (7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 13, 13, 13) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 22: Rep Row 4
Row 23: Ch 2, hdc in next 29 (34, 36, 40, 44, 48, 51, 55, 60) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 5 (5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 11, 11, 11) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 24: Rep Row 4
Row 25: Ch 2, hdc in next 30 (35, 37, 41, 45, 49, 52, 56, 61) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 3 (3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 9, 9, 9) more times, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 26: Rep Row 4
Row 27: Ch 2, hdc in next 31 (36, 38, 42, 46, 50, 53, 57, 62) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5, 7, 7, 7) more time(s), hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 28: Rep Row 4
Skip to Row 1 for XS (S)
Row 29: Ch 2, hdc in next 39 (43, 47, 51, 54, 58, 63) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 1 (1, 3, 3, 5, 5, 5) more time(s), hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 30: Rep Row 4
Skip to Row 1 for M (L)
Row 31: Ch 2, hdc in next 48 (52, 55, 59, 64) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 1 (1, 3, 3, 3) more time(s), hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 32: Rep Row 4
Skip to Row 1 for XL (2XL)
Row 33: Ch 2, hdc in next 56 (60, 65) sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * 1 (1, 1) more time, hdc in the remaining sts.
Row 34: Rep Row 4.
For all sizes –
Row 1: Ch 2, dc in first 2 sts, *ch 2, skip next 2 chs, dc in next 2 chs, rep from * to end, ch2, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 2: Ch 4, skip first 2 sts, *dc in next 2 chs, ch 2, skip next 2 sts, rep from * to end, dc in last 2 chs, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in ch sp, *ch 2, skip next 2 sts, dc in next 2 chs, rep from * to end, ch 2, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 64 (72, 80, 88, 98, 106, 114, 122, 132) dc, 32 (36, 40, 44, 49, 53, 57, 61, 66) ch sp.
Row 4: Ch 2, hdc in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning ch. 128 (144, 160, 176, 196, 212, 228, 244, 264) hdc.
Fasten off.
Section 2: Shoulder Straps
Place stitch markers on
| 1ST | 2ND | 3RD | 4TH | 5TH | 6TH | 7TH | 8TH | ||
| XS | 3 | 7 | 10 | 14 | 19 | 23 | 26 | 30 | |
| S | 3 | 8 | 11 | 16 | 21 | 26 | 29 | 34 | |
| M | 3 | 9 | 12 | 18 | 23 | 29 | 32 | 38 | |
| L | 4 | 10 | 14 | 20 | 26 | 32 | 36 | 42 | |
| XL | 3 | 10 | 14 | 21 | 27 | 34 | 39 | 46 | |
| 2XL | 3 | 11 | 15 | 23 | 29 | 37 | 42 | 50 | |
| 3XL | 4 | 12 | 17 | 25 | 32 | 40 | 46 | 54 | |
| 4XL | 4 | 13 | 18 | 27 | 34 | 43 | 49 | 58 | |
| 5XL | 5 | 14 | 20 | 29 | 38 | 47 | 53 | 61 |
– With Right Side facing you.
Right front straps
– Working between the 4th and 3rd stitch markers.
– Pass/thread 70 (98, 126, 126, 156, 182, 182, 210, 210) sequins/beads into your ball of yarn.
– Optional – If you prefer not to thread before starting, you could use a smaller hook size (2mm crochet hook) to pass your beads/sequins instead of pre-threading all before starting.
– Join yarn with a sl st to the 3rd stitch marker, crocheting towards the 4th marker.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn
18 (22, 26, 26, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sc
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * until last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. 17 (21, 25, 25, 29, 33, 33, 37, 37) sc
Row 3: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across, turn. 16 (20, 24, 24, 28, 32, 32, 36, 36) sc
Rows 4 – 9: Rep Rows 2 – 3
10 (14, 18, 18, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30) sc
Row 10: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, *pass a sequin, sc in next st, rep from * to last 2 sts, pass a sequin, sc in last 2 sts, turn. 10 (14, 18, 18, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30) sc
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. 10 (14, 18, 18, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30) sc
Rows 12 – 15: Rep Rows 10 – 11
Rows 16 – 24 (24, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32, 32, 32): Rep Row 11.
Fasten off.
Left front straps
– Working between the 1st and 2nd stitch markers.
– Pass/thread 70 (98, 126, 126, 156, 182, 182, 210, 120) sequins/beads into your ball of yarn.
– Join yarn with a sl st to the 2nd stitch marker, crocheting towards the 1st stitch marker.
– Do not forget all sequins/beads must be on the RIGHT SIDE.
– Repeat as with the right strap
Back Panel Straps
– With Right Side facing you.
Right Back straps
– Working between the 7th and 8th stitch markers.
– Join yarn with a sl st to the 8th stitch marker.
Row 1: Ch 2, * 2 sc in ch 2 sp, sc in next 2 sts, rep from * to the 7th stitch marker, turn 18 (22, 26, 26, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sc
Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. 18 (22, 26, 26, 30, 34, 34, 38, 38) sc
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st until last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. 17 (21, 25, 25, 29, 33, 33, 37, 37) sc
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, hdc in each st across, turn. 16 (20, 24, 24, 28, 32, 32, 36, 36) sc
Rows 5 – 10: Rep Rows 3 – 4
10 (14, 18, 18, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30) sc
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. 10 (14, 18, 18, 22, 26, 26, 30, 30) sc
Rows 12 – 15: Rep Rows 10 – 11
Rows 16 – 24 (24, 28, 28, 28, 32, 32, 32, 32): Rep Row 11.
Fasten off.
Left straps
– On the wrong side, join yarn with a sl st to the stitch with the 5th stitch marker.
– Working between the 5th and 6th stitch markers, rep as with the right straps.
Finishing
– Turn work into the wrong side
– With a slip stitch or darning needle (using mattress stitch), join/sew the shoulder straps.
Neckline
Crocheting around the Neckline, join yarn with a sl st to the left shoulder strap, ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
Armpit
Crocheting around the Armpit, join yarn with a sl st to the outer part of the left shoulder strap, ch 1, sc in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
Repeat on the other side.
Fasten off.
Section 3 of this summer crochet top pattern: Flare
- Crocheting from the lower end of the bust.
- Crocheting on the right side throughout.
- Join B with a sl st to the point where you fasten off in section 1
- Crocheting in rounds, increase or reduce the number of repeats.
Round 1: Ch 2, *dc in next st, 2 dc in next, rep from * to end, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
- For a fuller peplum, repeat Round 1.
- The prototype made with Row 1 was repeated one more time.
Rounds 2 – 20: Ch 2, dc in each st around, join with a sl st to beginning ch.
Increase or decrease the repeats for a better fit.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
I can’t wait to see your beautiful makes! Come share your projects with me and the crochet community on Facebook and on Instagram.
Fosbas
Frequently asked questions about this pattern -Pearl crochet top pattern.
- Can I substitute any other type of yarn with the same weight? YES, I have only used Lion Brand yarn as that is the yarn available to me. You are welcome to use any other brand of yarn at your disposal.
- Can I use another weight of yarn? It is not advisable to use another weight of yarn as this easy top pattern measurements, the gauge was based on #3 Double Knit (DK) weight yarn and also tested using a similar weight. However, for experienced crocheters, you might want to measure as you crochet. Do bear in mind that if you use any other weight of yarn, you might need to adjust your starting chains and the number of repeats.
- I have never made a crochet top with beads or sequins before, how easy is this pattern? This is my very garment designed using beads and sequins but I can assure you, it won’t be my last as I enjoyed every bit of the designing process and I am confident you can make yours also. I have also provided information on how to make your own version when you decide not to use either of the beads/sequins so that it fits your personality.
- Can I use more colors than suggested in the pattern? Sure, you are welcome to make your own versions of this top in colors of your choice. No matter the color(s) you decide on using, this top would come out so beautiful.
- How long does it take to crochet this? In as much as we all crochet at different speeds, I would suggest budgeting between 1 and 3 weeks. The time it would take you to complete your wallet depends on so many things like – the size you are making, the speed at which you crochet, and the amount of time at your disposal.
